Tuesday, August 23, 2016

Fortress of Louisbourg



My trip down Smokey Mountain involved a ferry ride at Englishtown across St. Ann Bay.  It cost $7.00 each way, but cut mileage off the drive.  It took me 2 ½ hrs to drive 63 miles.  The speed limit on the mountain is 20 mph.

My first stop was in Sydney at the Saint Patrick’s Museum.  St. Patrick’s is the oldest Roman Catholic church on Cape Breton island. 

Sydney was settled by colonists from New York and New Hampshire and became Nova Scotia’s third largest city in 1785; it was known as Spanish Bay until renamed in honor of Lord Sydney.

And then I drove to the Fortress of Louisbourg.   FYI: The fortifications of a fortress enclose a town, while those of a fort do not - they only house military. 

This fortress is a partial reconstruction of the original; the largest historical reconstruction in North America.  The reconstruction began in the 1960s, rebuilding one quarter of the original French town and fortifications.  Louisbourg was named for Louis XIV.  I paid for a tour and found the history very interesting.

Besides the buildings (and furnishings, which have been restored to as close as the original as possible … even getting the materials from the same regions as the original), they have period dressed volunteers to talk to you and answer questions.  There is a schedule of activities, including (but not limited to) “Fire a Cannon,” Military Pageantry, Life of a Soldier, learning the dances of the day/classes, the rum of the fortress, and a “Public Punishment.” 

The public punishment activity was entertaining.  In one of the discussions with the costumed volunteers in one of the buildings, she was showing us how to make lace and the latch work embroidery of the day, and explaining that according to French law, a widow(er) inherits the spouse’s property (unlike English law of the day), and there were many plants in the area that were poisonous …. Hint, hint.  Anyway, the woman in the neck collar in the public punishment was accused of stealing a bottle of wine.  When questioned as to why, she explained that she was celebrating the death of her husband; he died of “mysterious circumstances.”  He was her third husband to pass away; he did not work – a very poor musician, etc. ….. it was all very entertaining.  The punishment decided by the crowd was that she read stories to the children.



You can definitely spend the entire day, but I needed to move on.  I had planned to hit a couple more places before they closed (I wish museums stayed opened later!), but I was too late for the Alexander Bell Museum (another day).

Interesting note – the solid white flag was a show that there was royalty or a monarch present; after the surrender of France to England at Louisbourg, it became known as the flag of surrender. The English have a wicked sense of humor.

I had a “Mountie” behind me on the way to the Fortress.  Unfortunately, he was driving a white Crown Vic, not riding a horse and wearing a broad-rim brown hat and red coat.  They are the police force for most of Quebec, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia.  The ranger said they have their own metro police department in Glace Bay, but call in the Mounties for any serious crime.

I did visit the Marconi National Historic Site in Glace Bay, but missed the Miner’s Museum. 

I had a nice talk with the ranger at the Marconi Museum.  I was joking about how bad the Canadian drivers are and some of the things I had seen them do, and that now I know where all the bad drivers in the states come from …. He laughed and agreed that they are really bad and they joke about it themselves.  In fact, there is a TV show here showing Canada’s worst drivers and his friend was on a segment.

On his recommendation, I had a nice Southwestern Wrap at local restaurant for dinner.  They have been featured on “Where to Eat in Canada” and the food was good.  They are known for their carrot cake, but didn’t have any left for me to sample.  They sell out early every day.

Canada has pretty plastic/paper money, but I’m finding the coins get very heavy in your purse!

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