Sunday, April 16, 2017

Natchez Trace - From End to Beginning ...



Stretching from the Mississippi River in Natchez through the Shoals area in Alabama and across the Tennessee Valley to Nashville, the old trace was first used by American Indians.  In the early 1800s, it was the main return route for Ohio Valley traders who, rather than fight the Mississippi currents, sold their flatboats for the value of their timber in Natchez and walked home through Choctaw and Chickasaw territory via the Old Trace.

Today, the 444-mile road has emerged as one of America's most important examples of our nation's natural and cultural heritage.
https://www.nps.gov/natr
I started the drive at the end .... at the Nashville end ... officially beginning in Pasquo.  The community was originally settled in the late 1700s by a group from Pasquotank County, North Carolina.

Right off the terminus on Hwy 100 is the Loveless Cafe. In 1951, Lon and Anne Loveless purchased the “Harpeth Valley Tea Room” on Highway 100 and renamed it the Loveless Motel and Cafe.  Nationally acclaimed and frequented by celebrities, the cafe serves up award-winning country ham, Southern-fried chicken, and favorite scratch biscuits and fruit preserves.


Milepost 438 - Birdsong Hollow - the architecturally stunning double arch bridge separating the Parkway and Tennessee Highway 96 ... This 1,648-foot-long-structure won the Presidential Award for Design Excellence.
From Birdsong Hollow - that's the Trace going across the top

A view from the bottom
I had the privilege of going under and over this bridge several times while in the area.

Milepost 427.6 - Garrison Creek - In the late 1700s, a garrison here protected Nashville from Native American attacks.  The fort was used again as Army headquarters during construction of the federal road to Natchez in 1801. Today, it's a popular trail head.

Milepost 411.8 - Water Valley Overlook - a bird's eye view of the countryside.  The Water Valley community gets its name from the devastating flood of 1874, when Leipers Creek swelled over its banks and caused widespread damage.

Milepost 407.7 - Gordon House - Early Trace travelers paid Captain John Gordon to ride his ferry across the Duck River and for lodging at his 1817 home.
Milepost 404.7 - Jackson Falls - named for Andrew Jackson, Tennessee's first U.S. president - a short but steep paved trail takes visitors to a clear pool at the base of the falls.

Milepost 403.7- Old Trace Walk - you can walk on a 2,000 foot section of the original Old Trace.

Milepost 401.4 - Old Trace Drive and Tobacco Farm - This 2 mile drive has striking views of the forest and passes by the Tobacco Farm.

Milepost 397.4 - Old Trace - The Trace not only served as a road and footpath for many travelers, but it was also known as the Tennessee Valley Divide because it marked the boundaries of the Chickasaw lands ceded to the U.S. in 1805 and 1816.


Milepost 392.5 - Swan Valley Overlook - From here see the water tower in Hohenwald, the highest town in a straight line between New Orleans and Chicago.

Milepost 385.9 - Meriwether Lewis Monument & Grave - A few feet from the original location of Grinder's Stand, where this famous explorer died, a cabin constructed in 1935 contains exhibits on Lewis' life and death.

On October 11, 1809, while traveling to Washington to meet with President James Madison and carrying the expedition journals, Lewis died of gunshot wounds at Grinder's Stand on the Natchez Trace.  Whatever the facts surrounding his death, his sudden and tragic demise at an obscure place in a remote wilderness ended the career of on of the nation's most noted explorers.

A side trip on Hwy 64 is the David Crockett State Park - The David Crockett State Park honors the bravery and life of pioneer David Crockett, a Tennessee native. Visit the David Crockett Cabin & Museum on the park's grounds, to learn more about the man's exciting life.
Milepost 364.5 - Glenrock Branch - A short walk to a natural limestone amphitheater.  Enjoy the shaded picnic area and peaceful sounds of the creek.  A great place for a picnic!

Milepost 341.8 - Tennessee-Alabama State Line
Lots more to see, as you see on the map ... plus side trips to the various towns along the Trace.





Milepost 330.2 - Rock Spring Nature Trail - A short 1/2 mile loop trail that takes you past Colbert Creek.  In late summer when the Jewelweed is in bloom (alas, I missed it), you will be rewarded with views of the ruby-throated hummingbirds as they migrate south.

Milepost 327.3 - Today a bridge takes you across the Tennessee River, but George Colbert operated a stand and ferry at this spot in the early 1800's.

Milepost 269.4 - Confederate Gravesites and Old Trace - A short walk on the Old Trace will take you to 13 Confederate grave sites. The identity and cause of death of these 13 Confederate soldiers remain a mystery.



Milepost 266 - The Natchez Trace Parkway Visitor Center, located at milepost 266, has a twelve-minute orientation film, interpretive displays about the natural and cultural history of the Natchez Trace, as well as an Eastern National Bookstore. A park ranger is available from 8:00 am to 5:00 pm daily (except Christmas Day) to answer any questions you may have. This is also the location to get your passport stamps for the Natchez Trace Parkway, Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail, Tupelo National Battlefield, and Brices Cross Roads National Battlefield.

Milepost 261.8 - The Chickasaw Village Site is an archeological site that represents the village that once occupied the area. While there are no structures standing today, there is an outline of a Chickasaw winter home, summer home, and fort. A short nature trail gives more information on native uses of plants in the area. This site also allows access to the Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail for those interested in longer walks.
 As you can see from the sign, Tupelo is about half way down/up the Trace.

Extended drought conditions have caused severe cracking and movement of the Natchez Trace Parkway road surface in Mississippi; otherwise, it is a good road, 50 mph speed limit the entire length, and not too much traffic.  There were many times I was "alone."


The one hundred miles between Natchez and Jackson, Mississippi provides numerous opportunities to get out of your car and learn more about the history of the area. From prehistoric American Indian mounds, to a town abandoned in the early 1900's, there are thousands of years of history along the Natchez Trace. 
 
Milepost 122.0 - Cypress Swamp is a self guiding trail through a water tupelo/bald cypress swamp.


The Ross Barnett Reservoir parallels the parkway for about eight miles, and provides spectacular scenery from the roadway.




Milepost 259.7 - Tupelo National Battlefield - The 1864 battlefield is a mile east on MS Hwy 6.




Milepost 221.4 - Old Trace - There are several opportunities to experience the original trace, either by driving on a portion, or, better yet, walking along and feeling the history ...



The one hundred miles between Natchez and Jackson, Mississippi provides numerous opportunities to get out of your car and learn more about the history of the area. From prehistoric American Indian mounds, to a town abandoned in the early 1900's, there are thousands of years of history along the Natchez Trace. 

54.8 Rocky Springs - A short one half mile trail allows you to walk through the abandoned town of Rocky Springs.

All campgrounds on the Natchez Trace Parkway (there are thee) are primitive and have no hookups. The sites are available on a first-come, first-served basis with no reservations available.  You can reserve a site in the State Parks, with full hook-ups, for a small fee, if you prefer.  This is the one I choose ...


Milepost 41.5 - Sunken Trace - The Sunken Trace is one of the most photographed sites along the parkway. The trace appears sunken in this spot due to thousands of travelers walking on the easily eroded loess soil. This short trail will allow you to walk on the Natchez Trace just as thousands have before you.

The Sunken Trace at milepost 41.5 on the Natchez Trace Parkway was created in the highly eroded loess soil.
Emerald Mound is the second largest Mississippian period ceremonial mound in the United States.Milepost 10.3 - Emerald Mound  Emerald Mound is the second largest Mississippian period ceremonial mound in the United States, and the largest mound along the Natchez Trace Parkway. The mound provides a glimpse into the story of the Mississippian period people who lived along the Natchez Trace.

There are several Mound sites along the Trace. 

If you have visited Mounds before, it is definitely a worthwhile experience.










I have now driven all 444 miles of the trace, parts of it several times, and taken several of the side loop/scenic trips and can say it was well worth the time.   




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