Natchez, MS

Perched on the highest promontory north of the Gulf of Mexico, Natchez is the oldest civilized community on the Mississippi River.  Originally settled by the Natchez tribe, it was claimed by the French in 1716, the British in 1763, the Spanish in 1779, and finally the Americans in 1798.  In 1817 it was named the first capital of the new state of Mississippi.

During the early 19th century the city boomed as cotton was exported by steamboat.  Today Natchez is known for its rustic beauty, sense of history, and Southern hospitality.

The weather forecast is saying 3 days of heavy rain (but they have lied to me before), so I headed out to see what I could while the weather was clear.  As I have some 30 things on the list and I am only in the area this week, I need to make hay while the sun shines.  As it turned out, no rain at all .... and the forecast has removed all the rain for the week.  Buggers.  I'm glad I've learned not to put too much store in the forecasts .... ha

If you have an interest in the Mounds, the Mississippi Mound Trail opened last year.  They have quite a few in this area.  I stopped at The Great Village of the Natchez Indians to view their Mounds.  Although the ones at Emerald off of the Trace are said to be the best viewing, I found these interesting as they were actually experienced and documented by the French explorers, so other Mound sites refer to these for their documentation.

The Grand Village site features two large, open plazas and three mounds.  Only a few high-ranking Natchez would have lived here; most of the population was scattered across a wide area on farmsteads and gathered at the mound centers for important ceremonies.

Great Sun's Mound

OK, I think I've hit my life-time limit of visiting mansions and plantations ....

Melrose was considered by many to be the finest home in all of the Natchez region.  The McMurrans furnished their home with "all that fine taste and a full purse" could provide.

Lansdowne Plantation was built in the late 1800s as a wedding present for newlyweds George and Charlotte Hunt Marshall.

Rosswood Mansion

I stopped for lunch at The Old Country Store Restaurant.  Arthur Davis, owner, was taught to fry chicken by his grandmother.  "She taught me how to get the recipe for my fried chicken just right." 

The 130-year-old wooden structure was once a popular stop for purchasing everything from cotton to work boots.

Arthur walks around while you are eating, sings to you and asks how things are going.

The chicken was excellent ... as was the potato salad and blackberry cobbler.  It was buffet style, so I sampled cold green beans with tomato, cucumber with tomato in vinegar, and an unusual but good coleslaw.  There was also mustard greens, field peas, dirty rice ..... loads of food.

If it had been open on Monday, I may have eaten here ....

Mammy's Cupboard, a gas station turned cafe that is shaped like a woman's skirt. On the top of the building is Mammy's upper torso where she greets all that pass with a smile. When it was built in 1940, Mammy was a much darker skin tone and hints at the mind-frame of Southerners in the 40s.

Built in 1940, the Natchez Bridge began as a single bridge, but in 1988, a second bridge was built to accommodate the increased amount of traffic. The pair of bridges are considered a single entity,

This is the Bridge of Sighs in Natchez.  A view from the top offers joggers and walkers a beautiful sweeping view of the Mississippi River.

I had intended to stop at St. Mary's Basilica, but didn't add it to the list and, alas, forgot to stop.  I did get to the Post Office before closing, so it turned out OK, but would have rather delayed the postal visit for the church.

All of the stereotypical thoughts I've had of Mississippi seem to be accurate, at least in this part of the state .... I left the beautiful brick houses of Tennessee for rusted trailers and yards filled with old cars and junk.  This area is also the new "winner" for the most churches ... mostly Mississippi Baptist congregations. 

Even with the poor housing, poor roads, swampy conditions, biting flies, bugs, high humidity ... it doesn't seem to be as bad as my trip to Missouri.  I have to make another trip there to see if it's as bad as I remember it.  It just seems so unfair; maybe I was just having a bad month while I was there and a return visit will take it off the "do not return" list.  ha. 

I am glad to be heading West.  I am not a Southerner .... I don't eat pork; I don't care for BBQ; the humidity is terrible; sweet tea is undrinkable ... I am definitely a Southwest girl at heart!  I miss good Mexican food, sourdough bread, decent produce, dry heat, and recycling.

I chose where I'm camping partly because it is in the middle between Vicksburg/Jackson area and Natchez.  Next sightseeing trip I head North ...