Circle, AK

The road to Circle

Circle is located at the end of the Steese Highway, 162 miles (more than half of it is a gravel/dirt road) northeast of Fairbanks in Interior Alaska.  Contrary to what you might assume based on its name, the town of Circle is 50 miles south of the Arctic Circle. Miners who named the town in 1896 thought they were near the imaginary line.

My GPS wasn't too happy with the drive. It kept giving me the "we're not responsible for your lunacy" warning ...


I had 3 "sights" on my list for going to Circle ....

The water is Birch Creek - taken from the bridge

 Twelvemile Summit - suppose to be a spectacular view. Of course, it is suppose to be green and beautiful by now .... but it wasn't bad.  The wayside had a nice pit toilet ....

The second thing was the Pioneer Cemetery - headstones that date back to the 1800s - was inaccessible because .... you guessed it, the white stuff.

Frozen Yukon River

Lastly, I was told that when the Yukon River melts just the right amount a huge glacier of ice moves down it and clears everything in it's path.  It is suppose to be a sight to watch.  I now know I have a 3 hour limit on watching ice melt.  There were dozens of us out there waiting for the big show ... they even have spotters up the river to give reports; it's quite a big deal.  I missed it.  My watching-ice-melt-limit was up.  I needed water and another pit toilet! and some lunch.

For lunch, I stopped at a "building" in Central, Alaska, the only building, about 35 miles from Circle.

First, they had a really great burger.  It is almost worth the drive to get another one .. almost.  Second, because it is also the town tavern, 3 "gentlemen" at the bar were having a most inappropriate conversation regarding the President and his "lady friend" in the news.  You can hear it, can't you?  Very explicit .... when the kid (owners son helping out while the folks went into Fairbanks for the day) brought my burger I mentioned the racy conversation, and the gentlemen about fell off their stools.  They apparently had no idea I had come in.  It got to be quite funny, with all their apologizing, by the time I left.  They felt really badly ... I wasn't really offended.

To end the trip on a high-note (I didn't yet know about the mosquitoes), I had to wait for a herd of young moose to get out of the road.  I haven't seen any full-grown ones yet, nor a wolf, caribou or a bear ... but this was fun.

They were walking away from my car and wouldn't stand for a picture

The scenery was actually prettier on the way back.  I don't know if it was the time of day or the direction I was driving.

More Fairbanks ....

A great place to stop is the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitors Center in Fairbanks.  The staff is awesome, the exhibits first rate, the movie (on the aurora, what else?) was very good and gave some different information than the one I saw at the Museum of the North.

I spoke with a ranger for a long time regarding the BLM land on my route and the condition of the three gravel roads I want to drive.  He had several written items on the sights to hand me, as well as personal experience to share.  He actually lives in a dry cabin just outside the Fairbanks city limits.  I thought that probably narrows down his options for a wife, but didn't share my thoughts.  ha.  Anyway, after talking with him, I think I'm going to go for it!  Free camping, great scenery, and all the chips in your windshield (they call it the Alaskan Windshield) you can handle.  Sounds like fun.

So, what else have I seen?  Well, I saw the dump, only here they call it a Transfer Station.  Since I've been dry camping for several weeks now, and there aren't any dumpsters available, I was getting quite a load of trash in my car.  So this is how it works; you drive in (one way) to a square/rectangle open area.  On three sides are side-by-side dumpsters.  The fourth side is an area set aside for things that you want to "share"... like, for example, you have a washer that is still fixable or whatever, you put it in this area (there is a roof like a car port) and anyone can help themselves.  Sort of a recycle center.





And then there are these pipes on the corners, venting the steam from under the street.  I asked several locals to explain this to me and none could, but I gather the pipes under the street are heated and these are the vents.  I remember seeing pictures of New York City with the grates; I assume it is the same idea.  Not all of them are decorated (some are pretty ugly), but it was still something new for me to see.


I drove some back roads to see the area (actually once I was just lost), and, frankly, some of the houses are pretty basic and there is trash and debris all over the yards.  I'm not sure what that's all about.

When I was driving up the A2, there was more litter/trash along side the road than I have seen in any other state .... with a sign saying there is a $1,000 fine for littering.  I don't know if it gets cleaned up as summer approaches, or if it's just left that way.  Pretty sad.

There is a truck stop about 12 miles away, in Fox, called Hill Top.  Some locals recommended I give it a try, especially the pie.  It was pretty good, as was the patty melt.

So, you know I'm currently staying at Pioneer Park.  This is the official blurb - Established in 1968, Pioneer Park--previously known as Alaskaland--offers 7 museums, lots of restaurants and shops and attractions like mini-golf and theaters.  It is really a cool little place.  It is set up like a frontier town, with wooden plank sidewalks.  The buildings are all historic homes and buildings moved here from the area, each one has a plaque telling about its prior use and date, and they are used for the various shops, etc.in the park.  There is also a dance hall, carousel, and apparently the Alaskan Salmon Bake is a big deal. It is a nice place to walk around, even closed for the season.

This picture doesn't do it justice, but can you see the wavy road?  It's both cool and hard on your vehicle if you don't go slow ... Sections of the roads are like this ....

And the weather .... the sun came out and the temperature got up to 50 degrees today!  However, the wind was blowing (13 mph) and it is the coldest wind ever; it just is a miserable wind.

Its snowing hard in Valdez, my next stop, so I'm hanging  out here awhile longer.  More to come.

Projected Route Map

Hi again.

I get asked often "where to next?"  As anyone who has met me knows, I have a spreadsheet!  So I found this great map online and decided to show you "where to next."

Dark blue is 2019 - I'm going to Quartzsite, Arizona in January, Death Valley in February or March, seeing more of Nevada, and working my way North and across.  I will be paying more attention to the weather in front of me and adjust accordingly.  ha.  Winter will be in Florida next year, with a trip to the Keys and maybe Cuba.

2020 is the magenta -  I'll be wintering in Texas.

2021 will have me moving through the lime green states; ending back in Coarsegold, CA for the winter.

2022 (Orange) I will be repeating some of this trip and adding more.

And then?  Pushy, aren't you?  ha.  I want to do some "circuits" with friends, just traveling around an area with a group, doing more nature and less sightseeing ... and I want to eventually get to New Foundland, Canada, which I didn't have time to see when I was in the Atlantic Providences the summer before last.  And there will ALWAYS be places to re-visit and people to see again ....

The first three years has been everything I wanted and more ....and I anticipate the next several years to be even better!

Map

 

Junction City, Oregon to Fairbanks, Alaska -

2,844 miles driven

30 days

It doesn't look like much on a map!

The blue line is my route so far.  As you almost see, it started in Coasegold (just North of Fresno, CA) .....

Fairbanks currently has almost 18 hours of daylight.

No precipitation today and it almost reached 50 degrees.

I'm heading to Valdez when I leave here and they just got 5 feet of snow.  Jeez.

Fairbanks, Alaska

I ended staying a second night at Walmart because it started to rain, and then snow pretty heavily and it was only 28 degrees out .... so I stayed inside.  Three coaches left, but more came so we had about the same number the second night.  The "rule" is you only stay one night at Walmart and I didn't want to abuse it because Walmart is starting to change their openness in allowing RVs to stay because of the abuse, but I checked with the manager and he didn't mind ....

The next day, Wednesday, I headed toward a campground where I had reservations.  The snow was like nothing I had ever seen before - it was like pellets instead of flakes, and pretty slippery.  The reserved spot they had for me at the campground only had a household extension cord (no way!) and no water or sewer (for $200), so I left to find another spot.  I had to disconnect the Jeep to turn around, and then reconnect ....

I ended up at Pioneer Park.  I can park here for 5 days, $12 night.  It is just a parking lot, and I'm all by myself, but it works.  Next week a couple of campgrounds are opening up and I have a spot with water and sewer so I can get some wash done and a hot shower and do the dishes ... luxury!

Anyway, this is what I've seen so far ...

Airplane On The Roof - Pike's Aviator Green House has all the makings of a perfect rest stop: shops, a restaurant, a place to sleep and an attention-getter in the form of a plane on top of the building.


Alyeska Pipeline Visitor Center - Covering more than 800 miles, the trans-Alaska pipeline is a great tourist attraction as parts of it are above ground to prevent breaking due to freezing temperatures.
(Although I knew it would be there, it's still odd seeing it running alongside the highway).  I later learned during a movie at the Museum of the North, that they have to put a special material in the coating to prevent it from being damaged by the Aurora.

Something else I learned about the aurora (well several things, actually, but I want to share this one) is it is there all the time, 24/7/365. We can't see it because of the daylight and cloud cover, but it is always up there.  I wish I could have actually seen it, but it is cool knowing it is up above the clouds.

North Pole, Alaska - Santa Clause House (which is a huge gift shop devoted to Christmas "stuff")

The highlight so far, though, has been the Museum of the North at the University of Alaska.  It encompasses Alaskan history from the beginning through to today.  In the main level gallery the exhibits focus on the cultures, wildlife, geography and history of each of Alaska's five major geographic regions.

There is also an auditorium - I saw the Dynamic Aurora movie - and Galleries.  It is a great place to visit.

Yes, that is a table made from a Moose

Besides the revolving exhibits, there is a gallery of artwork done by local artists, which are very lovely, and outdoor exhibits as well (still snowing .... )



I just looked at the clock and it is 11:36pm.  I had no idea, as it is still day time outside, but I guess I'll pull down the shades and hit the hay.


Another big day tomorrow ....

Alaska, Tok to Fairbanks

Is this not the definition of "isolation"?

I left Tok on a lovely day - no "white stuff" and about 45 degrees.  This is what I imagined it would be like in April when I arrived, but alas, Mother Nature picked this year to throw her hissy-fit across the North American continent and left everyone shaking their heads.  I even had some bugs on the windshield, making me think Spring is coming.  And Mother Nature just keeps laughing at me .....

I did see my first Moose along side the road, but he wasn't very big and way too fast for a picture while driving.  I'm sure the next one will pose properly.  So, so far I've seen bison (buffalo), deer, caribou and a moose.  A bear?  I hope not!

There is a really nice rest stop between Delta Junction and North Pole.  I think it is Lost Lake, because of the street sign, but not sure.



Delta Junction is the end of the Alcon (Alaska) Highway and then the road becomes Alaska 2.  The visitor center in Delta Junction gives out certificates for completeing the journey and I intend to get one, but it wasn't open for the season yet when I passed through.  I have to go back that way to drive the Richardson Highway to Valdez, so I'll stop then.

So, remember a couple of paragraphs up when I said Mothere Nature keeps laughing at me?
This is now my drive.  The temperature dropped 10 degrees over the past 100 miles.



The sky here is different from what I've seen before.  The entire sky is white with clouds, then there are like clouds on top of those, and some on top of those .... it's really different ... like something artificial.

I arrived in Fairbanks without incident and made myself comfortable for the night at the local Walmart.  It was a nice Walmart, open 24 hours with plenty of RV parking for those passing through.  There were half a dozen of us parked for the night.

Tok, Alaska

Sitting in Tok waiting for my mail to arrive before I move onto Fairbanks.

Rented a movie from the “red box” and had dinner at Fast Eddy’s, the only restaurant (but a good one) in town.  Stopped at the library for wifi … easy days.   I'm physically in my car in the parking lot of the library using their wifi to send this . I’m so far out in the “boonies” even the satellite radio in my Jeep can’t find a signal, but ….

Am I actually in Wonderland?  I saw the largest white rabbit imaginable in my campsite.  Too bad it ran off before I could get the camera aimed, because it was THIS BIG. ha.  I have seen several rabbits since, mostly a "dirty white" color, but none as big as that pure white one

The squirrels must be hungry because they made short work of a half loaf of bread I threw out.  They are stealth as well because the bread was gone in a nanosecond and I only saw one squirrel.  I know, don’t feed the wild life but it is such a waste to put it in the trash ….

If you’re keeping track, I had the second worse haircut (in Junction City, Oregon at a salon) I’ve received in the last almost three years on the road.

Tok School (K - 12)

The snow is melting and the nights are staying a little warmer.  The wind continues to be cold and strong, but even the locals complain about the wind …  Apparently I’m starting to look like a lumberjack because the question is “local or passing through?” not “where are you from?”  Since that includes bad hair, flannel shirts and muddy pants and boots, I’m not sure it’s a complement.  :)

I went into town to return the movie I rented (I had to wait in line – apparently it is the only source of entertainment) and there were several RVs in town – at the grocery store, the restaurant and at the campground on the highway (apparently it is now open).  The license plates were from Alaska (coming home or leaving?) and California.  I’m still alone at the Sourdough Campground.

Sourdough has several meanings in Alaska.   A sourdough is soneone who has weathered some time in Alaska.  For example, one's sourdough status might be 1 year, which means they have survived a single year.  The length of time one must live in Alaska to actually be considered a sourdough is debatable.

View of Tok as you leave town toward heading to Fairbanks ....

(PS.  I can barely see my screne in the car, so if there are errors, I didn't see them :))