Ottawa

Back on the road again!  Instead of just replacing the broken part of my tow bar, for my peace of mind, I decided to replace the arms and cables as well. The driver’s arm bent a little, and rather than worry about anything, I just went for a new one.  So, $1,064 later and about 5 minutes to install, I’m all set to roll.

I don’t know what was going on at the border, but it was a pretty long wait; they finally opened another lane.  I’m not sure what the criteria are, but I either get no questions about produce, or I get inspected.  Odd.  The firearm questions and my residence are always asked, and, of course, my purpose and length of stay.  I wish I knew the deal about the produce though because I never know whether to dump it or not.  Oh well, it doesn’t matter as I actually have only 3 more crossings to do and then I’m done with Canada for another year.

As I mentioned in a prior blog, there are actually 1,864 islands in the “Thousand Islands.”  What makes an island .. an island?  To become part of the count an island must meet two criteria:  it must be above water 385 days a year and it must support a living tree.  No island is divided by the international border, meaning each is either wholly within the United States or Canada.  That causes the international border to zig-zag across the water instead of forming a straight line between the two countries.

Why am I bringing this up again?  I finally got to the 1,000 Island Tower after I crossed back into Ontario.  These are the “same” pictures I showed you before but taken from 400 feet above the St. Lawrence.

Holiday weekends, now that I’m not working, have turned into a mini-curse.  Trying to find someplace to stay in Ottawa for a day or two, I planned on the casino.  Well, they have an event this weekend and are using the RV lot, so that’s not available.  Unfortunately for me, I ended up in a security area with no turn-around.  The head of security was a very nice man, and sometime later after unhooking, 3-point turns, and re-hooking, I was on my way.  The local Walmart didn’t allow overnight parking, so I kept at it until I found a spot.  Driving through Ottawa in the coach, towing a Jeep on those narrow streets in traffic was a challenge, but no mishaps and all is well. 

So, today I went to the Notre Dame Cathedral Basilica in Ottawa.  Since I’m parked by a bus stop, I checked into just taking the bus, but it was a 45-minute commute for the 4 miles, so I opted for the Jeep.  I went early and was lucky enough to snag a street spot (still have to pay, but that’s fine).  I’m glad I went early because they had a funeral and it was closed to the public when I got back to the car.

The Basilica is the oldest and largest church in Ottawa, is a National Historic Site of Canada and the central church of the Catholic Archdiocese of Ottawa.  Construction of the cathedral began in 1847 and took almost 200 years.  Pictures of these churches can never do them justice, but it was beautiful.

And then I took a walk through Major’s Hill Park to the Rideau Canal and Parliament Hill.

Built in the mid-19^th century, the Rideau Canal is a man-made construction that travels through lakes and canals from Ottawa to the city of Kinston.  It was once used for shipping but is now recreational.  In the winter, it turns into the city’s ice skating rink.

The neo-gothic sandstone buildings were completed in 1860.  Located on a 165-foot hill, the Parliament offers a view of the Ottawa River.  The Parliament Buildings are distinctly reminiscent of London’s Westminster, both in their Victorian neo-gothic style and in their position.  Partly destroyed in a fire in 1916, all the buildings are now restored.

The National Gallery, featuring more than 25,000 works, this the country’s premier collection of fine arts, housed in this outstanding granite and glass building.  Located in the courtyard is this sculpture.  Called Maman, it is the last of six spiders cast by artist Louise Bourgeois as a tribute to her mother (odd?  Anyone?).  The sculpture, which carries 26 white marble eggs in its underbelly, stands 30 feet tall and weighs 13,228 lbs.  The National Gallery of Canada paid $3.2 million in 2005.

By Ward Market was a large outdoor (they move it indoors in the winter) farmers’ market.  The produce was beautiful, but I was afraid to stock up, not knowing the border issue on produce.  It is all locally grown.  There was also a meat market, a cheese market, bakery, and jewelry, jams, etc. 

It was a good morning to walk around Ottawa and enjoy the sights.

1,000 Islands area

Actually, there are more like 1,850 islands but they already had the dressing labels printed ....

This area is truly as beautiful as the hype.  I can totally see why all the rich people of the '30s and 40's bought islands and built huge mansions.  Breathtaking.

But before I arrived here ...

After leaving the Buffalo/Rochester area, I headed East to Pulaski, New York and then onto Watertown, New York.

The campground I stayed in Pulaski was celebrating Halloween that weekend and there were tons of activities, including hayrides, costume contests, the haunted rec hall, etc.  As I was leaving Saturday, I got stuck in the middle of the parade, totally ruining it and having people yelling at me, but I didn't know.  I asked what time check out was and they didn't mention the parade.  Oh well. Not the first New Yorkers that have yelled at me since I've been here.  It's a broad statement, but they do seem to be a pushy lot, especially the drivers.  I haven't been able to strike up a conversation with many and have been "pushed" out of line more than once, as I tend to stand back and give people space.

I briefly considered going to the NY State Fair (why is it held in Syracuse and not Albany?), but they were saying on the news they had set a new record high, even with the thunderstorm.  Almost 75,000 were there on a weekday; that's a stadium full of people all trying to walk around.  Nope.  I passed.

I did get a chance to take care of a couple "maintenance" issues that ended up costing more than planned.  First, I had my teeth cleaned and found a tiny cavity under my crown, so I had to have the crown removed, cavity fixed and a new crown put on.  That took a day of sightseeing off the plan.

So I took the rest of the time and went to Verizon for my Jetpack update, for which they charged me $100.  I ended up getting a new phone while I was there.  Getting a new phone is always a pleasant experience; no only does it cost a mint, it takes several days and LOTS of patience setting it up, especially with a new Jetpack.  I have to change the logon for every device I use ... TV, car, Kindle, GPS ... and remembering all the passwords for apps to reinstall.  Fun times.

I tried to extend my stay at this campground a couple of days to make up time and to get some rest, but they were full and I had to move on.

While talking to some locals about how the street lights hanging from cables rather than poles, they did have an answer other than it wasn't age, as they do the new intersections the same way.  I'm assuming it's because they have so many lights going across the intersection that poles would not reach.  Some intersections have a signal light for each lane.

I also did some traveling while I was here.  I drove from Mexico to Rome a couple of times; Mexico, New York, and Rome New York.😁

Also, I was able to add two National Historic Sites to my "visited" list while here, the Woman's Rights National Historic Park and Fort Stanwix National Monument.  Both did an interesting job of educating the visitors.

 In July 19,1848, Elizabeth Cady Stanton held the first Woman's Rights Convention in US history at the Wesleyan Chapel in Seneca Falls, New York.  The Declaration of Sentiments adopted at the convention took its first line from another famous document ... "All Men and Women are created equal ..." 

Besides the two floors of the visitor's center, there is an entertaining 20-minute film, Wesleyan Chapel, Stanton House, Mcclintock House, and Hunt House to tour.

The Visitor's Center at Fort Stanwix was done in an interesting manner; you walked through a timeline from one end to the other, which included short movies that started as you entered the area; always giving all 4 points of view; the four sides being the fur traders, the Indians, the Loyalist and the Rebels, including the wives and families on each side.  When you reached the end, you were able to tour the fort.

At the time of the Siege, the Mohawk and the Seneca fought with the Loyalists with the Oneida on the side of the Rebels.

The Siege of Fort Stanwix lasted 20 days.  On August 3, the rangers take down the US flag and raise the "siege" flag, then reverse the order again on August 23rd.  I was there for the flag ceremony signifying the end of the siege, on the 242nd anniversary.

The National Historic Sites are getting more and more into the "living history" aspect and I enjoy the interaction.

Alexandria Bay is a typical beach town; souvenir shops, crowds, narrow streets, no parking.  Plus they had an antique car show, so I was very glad I didn't try to drive my coach.

I took the Uncle Sam 1 hour tour of the bay and then spent some time at Boldt Castle.

George Boldt (Waldorf-Astoria fame) bought this island as a gift for his wife.  He changed the name from Hart Island to Heart Island and had the island shaped into a valentine heart before he started the castle.  One month before it's completion, she passed away and the castle was never completed.

The shortest bridge to span 2 countries

You know how when you walk through a Disney park and there are Mickey heads hidden everywhere?  George Boldt did that with hearts throughout the castle.

In the picture to the left, these islands are owned by the same person and the bridge is over the US/Canadian border.


Before heading back to the coach, I drove out to Tibbetts Lighthouse for some pictures.

I'm staying in Watertown for a week longer than planned, waiting on some parts for my tow bar before moving back into Ontario and Ottawa.


Today I drove across the border to visit Fort  Henry and the 1,000 island tower.  Unfortunately, when I got to the Tower, the elevator was having issues and I was asked to come back. Apparently, they couldn't fix the elevator, because when I came back they were closed.

Fort Henry had a lot going on.  I took the 1-hour tour provided by a costumed college student and then there was a Garrison parade which involved many guns and a cannon and was very loud.

On Wednesdays, at sundown, they do a reenactment which I'm sure would have been interesting but we are expecting a lot of rain tomorrow and I didn't think it prudent to be out in the rain when I'm trying so hard to get rid of the cough and congestion I currently have.  I was looking forward to buying a loaf of authentic soldier's bread, baked on-site, but they didn't bake today.

There was something I thought interesting about the "draw" bridge going into the fort.  Instead of lifting up to cover the entrance, this bridge lifts/folds in the middle so the US soldiers on the bridge would be dumped into the 10 foot ravine (like a molt) while the rest of the bridge would cover the opening.  This also prevents the enemy from using force to bring the bridge back down while it is being raised.


Lastly, you get to cross this toll bridge, or rather a pair of them, when you go over the border. It is $3/US or $4/CA and you pay each way

Hopefully, I'll cross this bridge again on Friday on my way to Ottawa after my tow bar is repaired.

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Niagara Falls

Yeah, my phone will work today.

 Niagara-on-the-Lake

 Niagara River Parkway is a delightful drive along the river. There are some huge, expensive homes along this road.   Niagara-on-the-lake is a beautiful town, with flowers everywhere.

 Ironically housed in an ice cream cone shaped building, this unique shop actually sells more than 70 flavors.

It took me over an hour and a half in line to cross the Rainbow Bridge back into New York.  All the lanes were open, so I'm not sure what the situation was, and after I crossed it was so crowded that I couldn't even get near the falls on the US side. All the parking lots were full and there was so much construction and detours just in this little area that maneuvering was very difficult.

By this time I had a full-blown cough going in addition to the sore throat and anvil, so I just went home.

I'm finding it more and more unpleasant to enjoy myself in crowds, maybe because I didn't feel well or maybe I'm just becoming a cranky old lady, or maybe because I spend so much of my time in the quiet, but the day was disappointing.  The falls were lovely and I was glad to see them, but the thought of joining in the crowd to get wet just didn't appeal anymore. 

Also, there are about 6 forts in this area where Canada and the US were defending against each other, and they were all on my list to visit, but when I got to the first fort I felt like "been then, done that."  Maybe I need a break, and probably shouldn't have planned a three-year trek, but the forts, lighthouses, heritage villages, etc. are all nice, but I'm losing interest.  Museums are nice because they are all different.  I need to develop a new interest for the road ... maybe I'll take up golf?

Buffalo

I was excited the first couple of times I got to go through the EZPass line at the toll booth with the new transponder I ordered, but then it sounded like "cha-ching" in my head as I realized how much it was costing just to drive around the city.  It is definitely worth having as it saves time and is convenient and accepted on all the toll roads down to Florida.  I have one on my coach as well.

So, what did I see in Buffalo?

These giant stone columns are all that remains of the former Manufacturers & Traders Trust Bank, originally built in the early 1900s. It was planned for demolition, but its columns were saved and now serve as a landmark on the campus of the University of Buffalo.

The shrines date from the 1920s. There are two main shrines (dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus and the Immaculate Conception), a central altar, a church building, and numerous statues. The shrines were designed by Father Ott and built by the parish members who sometimes brought rocks from their own property to incorporate into the structure.

 "Stainless Steel, Aluminum I, Built to Live Anywhere, at Home Here"  Like its name, this statue is visually quite bizarre. It consists of dozens of full-size canoes seemingly glued onto a pole and tied together with string (or steel cables), resulting in one giant bundle of boats. The sculpture is located outside the Albright Knox Art Gallery, in the heart of Buffalo's art district.

And here I have to put my disclaimer ....my phone died (again) and I wasn't able to take any pictures for the rest of the day.  I'm going to have to bite the bullet and get a new phone, but I keep putting it off because they are so expensive now.  What happened to the "good old days" when they "gave" you the phone? 😀 But for now, the rest of the pictures are someone else's.  Unfortunately, most pictures on the websites are protected, so I had to cut/paste some into this blog.

The next stop was the  Herschell Carrousel Factory Museum.   Relive childhood memories aboard the museum's two operating Allan Herschell carousels -- a full size, three-abreast machine manufactured in 1916 and a children's carousel made in the 1940s. These restored beauties, complete with Wurlitzer band organs, will tickle young and old alike. A collection of carousel animals illustrates the changes in style that took place over a period of 60 years. The museum also offers woodcarving classes.

The Masters Carver's shop

It was interesting to learn how the music sheets were made for the Wurlitzer organs and how the animals changed over the years.  They didn't always "jump" and when that technology came about it was thought to be the first roller coaster ride.  Also, did you notice that the animals are not painted the same on both sides?  The outside is detailed and ornate; the inner side is plain, as a cost-cutting measure.  Look the next time you ride a carousel. 

I also took a tour of the Lockport underground caves; the Erie Canal Locks underground tunnels. Dating back to the 1830s, the tunnels contain remarkable rock formations such as stalactites and flow stone, as well as artifacts left behind by the workers who built the tunnel. The tour also consists of the longest underground boat ride in the country, which is just a few minutes, but still ... Since it rained the day before, we had our own "falls" on the tour, especially the boat portion, so we got somewhat wet.

Since I didn't have a working phone for pictures, I passed on the last 3 "oddities" stops on my list, but my next stop was better than anticipated.

The actual room for the swearing-in

The Theodore Roosevelt Inaugural National Historic Site preserves the Ansley Wilcox House, where, here, after the assassination of William McKinley, Theodore Roosevelt took the oath of office as President of the United States on September 14, 1901.  

Usually, these sites are pretty dull with historical plaques and a ranger if you have questions.  But this site did an excellent job with volunteer docents who were interesting and interactive and displays that came alive with information you really cared about.  It was a great stop and I wish I had allowed more time. 

I hope I can get my phone to work tomorrow at the Falls.

I spent the day with a sore throat and an anvil sitting on my chest.  I can't imagine I got that from getting wet in the rain and again in the tunnel, but I'm miserable non-the-less.  Hopefully, it will pass quickly.

Rochester, etc.

The border crossing into New York was uneventful; there was about a 30 minute delay, which I didn't think was bad for a Friday.  The Border Agent just looked inside my coach and waved me on my way, no questions asked. 

Taking pictures from the bridge would have been great because the view was beautiful, but there were signs saying it was a $615 fine for doing so with your camera .... so a friend of mine took these and I borrowed them.

FYI, the most often spoken language in Canada besides English is Mandarin.  French is actually #13.  I had learned that on my sightseeing trip around Toronto and though it interesting.

My first stop this morning was the post office to pick up my mail and this lovely mural was painted on the building.  It was a nice start to the day.

And then off to Elba to take a picture of the onion.  Elba is the onion capital of the world.  When I lowered my window for the picture, the smell of onion was very strong.


The Sweet Life Country Store was a recommended stop in Elba.  It is a charming Country Store offering Oliver's candy, ice cream and coffee, pickled products, honey, maple syrup, jams & jellies, locally hand-made crafts.  I didn't have any ice cream, but I did get to sample a piece of sponge candy that is a local treat. I asked how it was made and was told "air and molasses."  It was different, but good; very sweet.

Today we had a severe thunderstorm warning and it rained very hard, with hail.  I almost had to pull over a couple of times because I couldn't see and the pinging on the windshield and roof was unnerving.  Unfortunately, now I see there are thunderstorms predicted for the next 3 days.  Darn.  Not only do they not cool off the temps, they increase the humidity, but most important I want to see and spend time at Niagara Falls (that's why I'm here) and the rain doesn't help.  Oh well.

In Le Roy (pronounced Laroy not Lee Roy) I toured the Le Roy house and the Jello Museum. 
Anyone curious about the origins of one of America's most popular desserts will have all their questions answered here.

 For some reason, in the lower level of the Jello Museum they had a transportation exhibit.

Jello molds

 In Rochester I visited Writer's & Books to see some of the interesting sculptures, the Strong National Museum of Play and the Public Market; all doing a booming business in the rain.

Middleport had a nice surprise for me.  I was taking this picture of the a mural of the Erie Canal and then made a right turn, only to find the road was gone; it was actually a bridge that was lifted like an elevator, into the air for a boat to pass under.  It was quite the surprise, as there weren't flashing light like a train or anything, just an "arm" bar across the lane.


Consisting of three different historic depictions of Middleport, this mural blends in so well that it looks like a painting has been hung on the side of the building. The large painting in the middle depicts the Erie Canal, and the smaller two paintings, located on either side of the middle painting, are replicas of local town photos.



In Medina I found this apple ... Created between 1999 and 2000, this giant piece of fruit commemorates the fruit growers in the western part of New York.


But most exciting of all was this tunnel on Culvert Road that went under the Erie Canal. 

"Only road under the Erie Canal in Ripley's Believe It or Not." 

Built in 1823, it is wide enough for a single car.






My last sightseeing stop today was the Thirty Mile Point Lighthouse.  It gets its name because it is the point 30 miles east of the Niagara River.

 Tomorrow I'm going to shuffle off to Buffalo ....